Aridus Rising
Written in Imbiber's Journal
For seven years now the good folks at Aridus Winery & Vineyard in southeast Arizona's Chiricahua foothills have been sending me samples for review. Over the course of that time, evidence of winemaking evolution and improvement have come through in the bottles. While they bottle some varieties that aren't quite my thing, it's clear that attention to detail in both the vineyard and in the cellar is paying off.
At nearly a mile above sea level, this part of the country gets hot days and cools nights, essential to bringing out wine grapes' acidity. But that doesn't mean the wines don't also carry some weight. In fact, most have a high level of gravity, often accompanied by eye-watering levels of alcohol. Nevertheless, balance is achieved in the final products, which is impressive.
Following are my favorites from the most recent batch. And for the first time, they included a couple of vials of dirt (pictured below) from the vineyard blocks where their red and white varieties are respectively grown. This nifty token illustrates just how hard the rootstocks have to struggle, which is almost always a positive for vinifera.
2023 Aridus Malvasia Blanca
Wow! Though I may not be much of a demi-sec fan, the eye- popping experience of this unusual white wine is undeniable. Drinking much like a single vineyard German riesling, it has a full kaleidoscope of flavors and aromatics. The sweetness (20 g/cl of residual sugar) is upfront, but isn't cloying, and, for fans of a thrill rides, is framed by a multifaceted spice rack of flavors ranging from industrial to funky-fresh to fruity and everything in between. Real serious complexity here, and a balance that suggests age worthiness. Quite a pleasant surprise.
2021 Aridus Cabernet Franc
Very, very dark in the glass, with long legs and agility when swirled. The nose is elegant and complex, with frequencies in higher ranges, and finely delineated contours. The palate is clean and precise, serving up a medium-bodied red and black fruit framed by subtle Christmas spices and lacy acidity. The finish is long, yet not at all cloying. An interesting wine that will please wine nerds and pleasure seekers alike. 13.6% abv.
2021 Aridus Tempranillo
Dark, inky, dense, and glass- staining, this gregarious red is far from subtle. Black fruit aromas laced with cedar lead into a palate that shows off this wine's largesse. Plenty of mouth-puckering acidity (in a very appealing way,) it is surprisingly light on its feet, particularly given its 16% ABV. Sure, there's a little heat on the finish, but this is overall a balanced and polished wine that is very easy to enjoy and will find a broad fan base.