Praising … Arizona?
When I first started this blog, I was living in Pennsylvania, which has a vibrant wine industry, which, depending on which source you use, usually ranks fifth in total wine production. But let’s face it, a lot of the wine produced in the Keystone State is, well, not very good.
Then, almost ten years ago, we moved here to Texas, which also has a strong wine industry, which, again, depending on the source, usually ranks in the top ten when it comes to wine production by state. And while I have had some very nice Texas wines, I have also had many that were, um, well, not.
All this is to say that outside of their respective states, there are few that would put either Pennsylvania or Texas on a list of “Top States for Wine” (or something equally click-baity).
There are other states that have modest wine production numbers but, like Pennsylvania and Texas, are rarely (ever?) found outside of the state borders. But most people who are into wine know that there are solid wines from Michigan, Colorado, Ohio, and certainly Virginia.
But Arizona?
A couple of years ago, when I was asked to try some wine from Arizona, my first thought was “Um, yeah, thanks but no thanks.” But then I realized that was an elitist, snobby response, two attributes that run rampant in the wine world and which I have desperately tried to avoid (to varying levels of success).
So I said “Sure”.
And I am glad I did.
Those wines were from Aridus Winery and Vineyard in Wilcox, Arizona and I really was pleasantly surprised by the wines. So when I received an email a couple of months ago asking if I wanted to try the latest wines from Aridus, I did not hesitate. “Heck, yeah!’
Now, as any researcher would tell you, basing an assessment on a sample size of one is a really stupid thing to do, but if the other producers in the Grand Canyon State are even remotely of the same quality as Aridus? We might soon be adding Arizona to that click-bait list.
Yes. Arizona.
2023 Aridus Sauvignon Blanc, Wilcox AVA, Arizona: Retail $40. Very Responsible Bottle (494g; 17.4oz). Under screw cap. I had to use two pair of pliers to remove the screw cap as the capsule just spun. Another writer I respect said that this contains some Muscat and Malvasia Bianca, but I could not find any evidence of that online. The wine, however, seems to support that assertion with a near-yellow color, a largely tropical nose, buoyed by honeysuckle and white hyacinth, a rich unctuous mouthfeel, and plenty of ripe fruit. If I were tasting this blind, I would be hard-pressed to guess Sauvignon Blanc off the bat, but this is a delightful, alluring quaff that will appeal to a wide variety of audiences. Excellent. 91 Points.
2023 Aridus Malvasia Bianca, Wilcox AVA, Arizona:Retail $40. Very Responsible Bottle (459g; 16.2oz). Under screw cap. Of the six wines that the kind folks at Aridus sent me, this Malvasia Bianca was the one I was most eager to try. There is simply not a ton of it in this country and I have always enjoyed those that I have previously had. As is the case here. In the glass, a pale straw with lovely tree fruit aromas: bright peach, Asian pear, a touch of red apple. But there is also a pronounced floral component with honeysuckle and white rose and even some tropical fruit notes of pineapple and citrus. Yowza. The palate is initially off-dry (20g/l residual sugar), but the tangy, zesty acidity soon joins to bring balance. We tend to eat a lot of Asian food and this is a homerun pairing. Excellent. 90 Points.
2022 Aridus Graciano, Wilcox AVA, Arizona: Retail $65. Very Responsible Bottle (489g; 17.2oz). Under cork. Graciano is primarily used as a blending grape with Tempranillo, to add a bit of structure and depth. Rarely is it produced as a singular varietal wine as we have here from the fine folks at Aridus in Arizona. Apparently, the variety thrives in warm or hot climes, which tracks in this case. Dark, even inky dark, in the glass with a bevy of black berries on the nose: blackberry, cassis, plum (OK, not a berry), with some earth and maybe a floral note (but well hidden behind all of that fruit). Big, dark, even brooding fruit on the palate as well with a touch of mocha and plenty of spice. This Graciano lives up to its reputation; it’s a big boy with plenty of stuffing and oodles of chutzpah. This is no wallflower, so put on your big boy pants and have some fun. Excellent. 92 Points.
2021 Aridus Tempranillo, Wilcox AVA, Arizona: Retail $50. Very Responsible Bottle (493g; 17.3oz). Under cork and foil. Dark, but not as dark as the Graciano, for example. Still, this is on the verge of brooding with plenty of fruit on the nose with blueberry and plum predominant. There is also a meaty, earthy note, perhaps more leather than soil-like, but certainly inviting. The palate is rich and full, with fruit at the lead. The acidity comes in with a bang on the mid-palate and stays in charge all the way through the lengthy finish. I do not drink enough Tempranillo, but I would drink more, particularly if they were more like this wine. Excellent. 91 Points.
2021 Aridus Cabernet Franc, Wilcox AVA, Arizona: Retail $65. Very Responsible Bottle (491g; 17.3oz). 100% Cabernet Franc. Under cork and foil. I decided to pop the last two samples while watching the Arizona Cardinals football game even though I had zero interest in the outcome (I am an Eagles fan, after all). I am a big fan of both the winery (although I have never visited) and the variety (even though the winery uses “varietal” *cringe*). Medium to dark in the glass with plenty of luscious red and black fruit on the nose along with a touch of earth and a hint of sage. Glorious. The palate is equally enticing with great fruit, a bit of spice, some of the aforementioned earth, and finishes with more of a mint than sage. I am pretty sure that “Arizona” is not the first thought when hearing “Excellent Franc” but I am sure Aridus is working hard to change that, and this wine is certainly a powerful message along those lines. Excellent. 92 Points.
2022 Aridus Malbec, Wilcox AVA, Arizona: Retail $60. Very Responsible Bottle (484g; 17.0oz). Under cork and foil. I know this wine has been a Malbec blend in the past, but I could not find any information on the varietal composition of this vintage online. I would have to go with “medium color” particularly for a Malbec with aromas of blackberry, cigar smoke, dark earth, and a touch of mocha. The palate is fruity, really fruity, so fruity, in fact, that it comes off as a bit sweet. The acidity comes in on the mid-palate, but it struggles to balance out all of that fruit. There is a bit of oak, that mocha, but not much on the tannin front. I would argue that this wine should be consumed in the short term; it’s fruity, fun, and fruity (did I mention “fruity”?). Very Good. 89 Points.